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- By Albert Crane MD
- 13 Sep 2026
When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.
The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.
“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.
However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.
It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.
It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.
A tech strategist with over a decade in AI implementation and digital transformation projects across various industries.